Istanbul was Constantinople
Now it's Istanbul, not Constantinople
Been a long time gone, Constantinople
Why did Constantinople get the works?
That's nobody's business but the Turks
Even old New York was once New Amsterdam
Why they changed it I can't
say
People just liked it better that way
So take me back to Constantinople
No, you can't
go back to Constantinople
Been a long time gone, Constantinople
Why did
Constantinople get the works?
That's nobody's business but the Turks
Istanbul has been on my Bucket List of Places to see (including this post and this post). The reason I have always wanted to go to these places is because of my passion I have for Art History. I love learning about Art and then being able to see ancient artifacts with my own eyes - not just a pretty picture on a page. I like to feel the essence and atmosphere of the location, and I love to understand more about the culture of where the history behind the art comes from. The only other stop I have to make is the Mayan Ruins before I have to create another "travel bucket list."
Regardless, I was ancy and filled with butterflies to come here. Once we jumped off the tram and wandered our way to our hotel - I instantly knew I was in love with this city. The parks were filled with people - and not tourists - but locals coming to gather together. (We later found out why). The city was alive and bustling and didn't stop until the early hours of the morning. The excitement and entertainment were over the top. Michal & I felt like we fit right in!
The Blue Mosque bears the inscription "La ilahe illallah" meaning "There is no deity but god."
That first night we walked through the Hippodrome Square (now known as Sultanahmet Meydanı or Sultan Ahmet Square) because of ancient chariot racing which used to occur here during the time period when Istanbul was known as Constantinople. Within this square are many ancient artifacts and surrounding the square are beautiful mosques which highlight the city's famous landmarks. Two of the most famous additions to this Square are 'The Obelisk of Theodosius' and 'The Blue Mosque.'
The Obelisk of Theodosius was brought back from Luxor in the year 357 AD to commemorate Constantine's 20 year reign upon the throne. The obelisk is now about 18 meters tall, but once stood over 30 meters high. The four sides celebrate Tutmoses III victory on the bank of the Euphrates River in 1450 BC. While the obelisk itself truly represents Egypt, the pedestal upon which it stands, was erected to represent events in Constantinople. With the various sides mostly representing chariot races and the emperor crowning the victors of the races. This obelisk is one of 29 obelisks still standing around the world (all have been pilfered from Egypt). They are located in the following places: Egypt (9), France (1), Israel (1), Italy (11), Poland (1), Turkey (1), United Kingdom (4), United States (1).
The following day I made Michal promise me that the first thing we do would be to visit Hagia Sophia. It was a dream come true. And, I hate to admit it, but I got quite teary upon entering this church/mosque converted into a museum. I was overwhelmed that I was finally here and had made it! I can't tell you how worth it, it was to be able to visit this wonder. Michal sure planned one heck of an anniversary gift for me.
Hagia Sophia was constructed in 537 AD by Byzantine Emperor Justinian as an Orthodox Church. It remained this way until the year 1453 when the Ottoman Turks converted the Byzantine Church into a Mosque. The reason that this ancient architectural edifice is so important is because of its preserved history and changes which have enriched the cultural meaning over the years. From Minarets to ancient iconostasis features, this museum is an archaeological treasure.
I found my own markings with my initials in them "KT". May not be as impressive as the Empress Zoe Mosaics, but still such a delightful surprise! On the right is the Empress Zoe mosaics. Here Christ sits in the center with a Blue Robe holding the Bible in his hand. To the right of him is Empress Zoe with a scroll that symbolizes the donations that she has made to the church. On the left is her husband who is giving forth an offering to the church. (Interesting fact: this guy's face changed 3 times as this is Empress Zoe's 3rd husband. The face was changed each time she was married).
This mosaic is probably the most famous mosaic within all of Hagia Sophia. At the original entrance to the mosque it reminds the spectator that they are entering a Holy Site which was dedicated to the Christ child by Emperor Justinian and Emperor Constantine. Justinian (on the left) is shown offering Christ (sitting in Mary's lap) Hagia Sophia while Constantine (right) is shown offering up the city of Constantinople to Christ. The mosaic presents the connection between the church and the empire and the
church as the seat of imperial ritual.
This was the best picture that I could take which shows how much this building has changed throughout the centuries. Not only can a minaret be seen in the background, but you can view the old walls of the ancient Byzantine Orthodox Church, which has been flanked repeatedly by numerous buttresses to keep the building standing today.
Lunch was definitely on the agenda next. We were hungry. Especially me.
While Michal studied his options carefully, I knew right away what I wanted: HUMMUS! I'm pretty sure that my diet in Istanbul consisted of 3 items: Bread, Hummus, and Grapefruit Juice. I know it's not the healthiest, but when you're pregnant, you have a great excuse to eat the way you want to.
Next we headed over to the Blue Mosque.
While we waited outside to head in, I noticed the bathing stations where Men stop to wash their hands and feet before entering to worship Allah.
The Blue Mosque is actually a nickname for this mosque because of all the blue tiles and blue color which can be found on the interior of the mosque. The title is actually Sultan Ahmed Mosque because he is the founder, and is also buried here.
This mosque is also well known because of its overwhelming size, its majesty, and its splendor. As I was there a local pointed out to me that this Mosque has 6 minarets. He mentioned that most, in Istanbul, had only 4 and the mere fact that this mosque had 6 adds to its grandiose magnificence.
Exiting the mosque, Michal was able to put his haggling skills to use and get a Turkish hat for next to nothing.
We decided to put his "haggling skills" to use and head to the Grand Bazaar. Um. I love Bazaars and was so excited! Along the way we ran into a few fun attractions I found in my handy-dandy Turkey Guide Book.
Atik Ali Pasa Mosque (above)
Constantine's Column (below) -
It commemorates the declaration of Byzantium as the new capital city of the Roman Empire.
The GRAND BAZAAR
I was SOOOOO excited to go to this Bazaar. And after arriving, I got a little overwhelmed. This place is massive (not as big as old town Jerusalem) but easy to get lost and find something that you like and then forget (actually get lost) on how to get back and purchase your trinket.
Not only was I overwhelmed, but hungry and tired. For a Bazaar being one of my favorite things, I just needed a break and to come back to visit. Unfortunately we never did. But that's probably a good thing because otherwise I would have spent WAY TOO much money there.
On our way back to the Hotel to take a rest, we HAD to have our famous Istanbul "fresh squeezed" orange & grapefruit juice! Better than Ice Cream! And Michal found a store with his (only) Turkish friend's name: Utku.
After our nappie, we headed back out to hit the Bazaar. All along the streets of Istanbul you can find phone booths. Seriously, people still use these? The correct answer is: Only in Istanbul. They are always in use. We had to document it to verify this otherwise no one would believe us.
So.... the Bazaar was closed - (bummer) - and instead we decided to hit up a Mosque and then Istanbul University.
 |
| Istanbul University |
On the way to see Suleymaniye Mosque we noticed that there were hundreds or thousands of people sitting around tables just WAITING to eat. And then it dawned on me: RAMADAN! We visited Turkey during the holy festival of Ramadan. These families were all gathering nearby mosques or in parks or squares to gather together to eat and celebrate the break of the fast!
This was just one massive restaurant getting ready (it looked more like a cafeteria). These people sure showed great restraint in waiting to gorge. But, the call to prayer was still over an hour or two away to announce that the feast could begin!
Look at the view! It is incredible from up here!
Soon after we left the Mosque, the call to prayer started. The streets were DESERTED!!! Everyone was already out and about with friends and family ready to eat. Can you believe this?
Our last day in Turkey we decided to try to go over on the "other side" of Istanbul so that Michal could say that he has been to ASIA!
On our way there we saw some super cool street vendors! (Wouldn't you agree?)
Below is Michal enjoying the bus ride over to Asia. It costs us like a dollar (or something close) to make it over there. Michal was in heaven. He wanted to go to Asia so that we could tell people that in the month of August we were in THREE continents. Even though this is a tad misleading - it is the truth.
So, Asia doesn't look that much different from one side to the other. We just jumped off the bus. Took some pictures and took the next bus back to our original destination.
On the plane ride over, I sat next to a gal from Saudia Arabia who had cousins living in Istanbul. She told me her FAVORITE street in Istanbul was Istiklal Street. It's mostly a street adorned with fashion shops and street vendors and lots of restaurants. I tried to see "touristy" things along the Istiklal Street - but I failed. They weren't that cool.
Here is the proof that I failed! We went to see the Church of SS Peter and Paul. I soooo could have sworn that I had learned about this church in my 'Ancient Byzantine Art & Architecture' class. I was wrong. This church was built in the 1400's-1600's. NOT in the Byzantine Era (correct me if I'm wrong - please). But we had to ring a bell to get into this tiny church. A little monk opened it up for us. We were the only ones there. It had nothing recognizable (hence I knew I hadn't learned about it). And we missed out on the Galata Tower because I insisted we come here. At least we can look back and laugh on it instead!
Don't worry though, Michal made me feel better by buying me some Grapefruit Juice! Then I didn't feel so bad for dragging him all the way out there!
The last mosque we visited was one nearby our hotel. It is called "The Little Hagia Sophia." Same story.... once a Byzantine Church, then converted to a Mosque during the Ottoman Empire. Not a single iconoclastic image can be found within this mosque. However, this old man showed us the ancient carvings (done back in 530 ish AD) which are still a part of this building.
We figured it was only fitting to go spend out last night celebrating the LAST day of Ramadan with all the Turks!
We noticed (while we were waiting for Ramadan to start) that kids jump on the back and front of the trams and ride around as if it's no big deal. I was scared to death they would fall off and get run over. I wish I could have gotten a better shot, but this was the best I could do. At least Michal makes a good model for the picture!
We had such a blast and truly enjoyed this culture. The people were so kind, warming, and friendly. The place was so energetic, lively, and comfortable. The experience was unforgettable. And every penny spent was worth it!
This was truly a wonderful experience. I feel so lucky that Michal enjoyed it just as much as I did! He is such a great traveling companion and always up for an adventure.
